The next day was my birthday, and I thought there was going to be a disco at the Yacht Club, but alas it was the end of the season and it's no longer on. A good thing, it would turn out. Apparently there was going to be a gathering up at Casa Isabel that night, in honour of some of the local expat musicians that were leaving for the season the next day. Shauna & I made plans to meet at Pollo Bollo for dinner. I, of course, got lost and ended up in some eldery Senora's yard, she happily pointed me in the right direction, and I eventually made it. Wow! what a meal, Shauna with the Arrechera and I with Chicken Fajitas. . Muy Bien! After dinner we made our way up to Casa Isabel (Isabel has been living here for years, she's a legend in her own right, and has a beach named after her...that's right...Isabel's Beach) When we got there it was incredible...bongo drums, guitar, "Yelapa Air" Chris on piano, a harmonica thrown in on occasion and a voice that will haunt me for a long time. Her name escapes me but the way she sang Sting's Seventh Wave..(I think that's the name of it)...I'll never forget it, muy excellente! and the Casa...it belonged to Beverly and the art involved in it was nothing short of incredible what a place. The evening had quite the hippy vibe. I thought to myself "there's no way it can get better than this"
It Gets Better
Thursday me and Shauna hired horse and guide to take us up to the cathedral waterfall. two hours on horseback each way. the way up was amazing, you travel past the pa
lapas up the river with the women doing the laundry in what's left of the river, dog's everywhere, cabelleros on horseback, the dust is flying, cows laying in the "road". It's like stepping back in time a few hundred years. Once at the waterfall its nothing much, we spent maybe 1/2 hour there. Chilling on the rocks, listening to the sounds of the waterfall. On the way back the horses knew they were heading home so they went a bit loco. Mine especially. They would start running away from the guide, going in odd directions. At one point there was a clear path to get down to the river but good old blacky decides to jump down the ledge instead...jump! I don't ride horses, I can't remember the last time I was on a horse, and after the horse started galloping or trotting or whatever horses to when they go fast, I felt pretty proud of myself, if I may
say so. Jumping, however, that didn't sit well with me, you can just imagin the look of fright on my face...I'd get that look again in a few days, you'll see. I managed to stay on the horse, incredibly and eventually made it back in one piece.
After all that we treated ourselves to an incredible lunch at Restaurante Andy's for Chli Rellenos...I'll be dreaming of that meal for a long time! Muy Bien!!
Higher than a Kite!
Friday...what did I do friday...Hmm...Let me think..oh yeah...I met Chris at his Casa in the early afternoon. We took a hike up the mountain (not really a mountain, but a Yelapa Mountain) It's kinda like the Grouse Grind but in 30 degree weather and no trees to shade you. If you know the Grouse Grind, you know what I mean. So we finally get to the top and we're standing there just before the ledge, and he says to me "are you ready to do this?" I say "yes" "do you have a good attitude, are you gunna have fun?" "yes!" "alright, alright" my knees are shaking, my hands are by my side fingers twitchin "are you ready to do this?" he says again and again...anicipation is building...my heart is pounding...half an hour of this and finally I hear it "one two three...RUN, RUN, RUN....PULL PULL" with a shreak and a WOOOHOOHOOHOO.... I'm flying...I've just jumped off a mountain....hee hee hee. talk about eurphria!! So I guess I should explain there was a parachute attached to us and we are flying over Yelapa Bay and it is incredible...
This night dinner was at Ramona's (I believe that's what it's called). It's a small hole-in-the-wall taco place, if I hadn't met Reef earlier I never would have thought to go there, there's no lights on, one or two large tables with the chairs stacked up on the side. At first glance I would have guessed it was closed. But it turned out to be the best taco joint in town. It's the kind of place where if you want a beer you have to go to the store next door and buy it yourself. After dinner we all headed to Mimi's Cafe for live music
That night we met Roger (Mimi's Husband?) who would take us to Tres Marietas Islands the next day.
Dolphins and Turtles and Mantas...oh my!
It's now Saturday and I still haven't found time to sit on the beach to drink beer and read my book, but I'm not complaining! Off I go to the Panederia for enough Banana Bread for Roger, Shauna and I, then to the store for enough beer for us. After a 10am departure from the pier we quickly see a pod, group...gaggle...swarm..I don't know.. of Dolphins. Beautiful dark, BIG dolphins, I've never seen dolphins outside of the aquarium before, they were swimming right up to the boat. unbelievable. then we saw a turtle...a big turtle just swimming around
with a little bird on its back. This is crazy, this sort of thing just happens on the nature shows. then there were the Manta Rays...ok, I don't know what to say about the Manta rays...they were jet back with a pure white "face" and they were, I kid you not the size of the boat...gigantic is not expressive enough of a word...I was in awe...awe I tell you. So we get to the islands an
d they are the home of the blue-footed boobie bird...thousands of boobies everywhere you looked. After circling the islands...checking out the caves...commenting on the outrageous stench of bird shit. We take a breather on one of the small isolated bea
ches. Then we enjoy the lunch Roger has prepared for us. Ceviche...I'm not a fan of seafood..I know, crazy. but this was tasty, don't tell anyone, I'll never live it down. We went snorkeling and Roger would crumble bread to
attract all the fish. Once I was in water he would throw it to where I was swimming, so basically if felt like the fish were attacking me. And they weren't the pretty colourful ones, they were the ugly grey ones that always won out and got the closest! On the way back we were just relaxing on the boat soaking in the sun. Roger stopped in a cove just east of yelapa. Ok, we're going to swim with these gargantuan Manta Rays...uh...I say to myself ...you want me to get in the water with those things?...ok! So snorkeling gear on, in the water I get. We'd swim around and pop our head up and see where Roger is pointing. He was pointing in a direction and i'd swim to it, head down...nothing. look up he's still pointing...head down...nothing! look up and he's pointing at me! yelling something in Spanish pointing at me frantically, I think this guys gone loco and why is he pointing at me...I put my head down and WHAM! this giant as the
boat, jet black manta with a bright white face is literally right in front of me...well if you can imagin I do the freak out face, body all contorted and do what you probably shouldn't do and make this sudden jerky motion and try and do the backwards bird and push myself away from it, its huge fin / arm thing just about slaps me in the face! I was nearly bitch-slapped by a Manta! It starts to disappear and I say wait a minute and try and go after it, but it's too late, I freaked it out. again...unbelievable! as i'm getting back into the boat another one comes direcly beneath my feet. seriously..this place is cool! Now that I think of it, I think the spanish gibberish Roger was yelling at me was something of the effect of "watch out you crazy gringo, it's heading straight for you!!"
That night we were privy to the "Gossip Ladies". Sitting on the ledge waiting for a decent sunset shot, the Senoras of the town came wandering along and sat with us. Apparently, they wander around town to try and dish on all the dirt that happening in town. I don't speak Spanish and they don't speak English so I basically had to just smile and nod and wait for Shauna to fill me in. I felt quite honoured and made a mental note to learn Spanish before I return.
After dinner at Andy's (had to taste that Chili Rellenos once again) Reef took us to the Baile, the local dance hall, what a great experience. We were the only gringos there and it was all traditional mexican music and dancing. All the girls were stood outside the doors, and we figure it's because it's not acceptible for the wives and girlfriends to be sitting in a bar drinking beer...that didn't stop me and shauna of course, we were two of three girls there. I wish I could take pictures of that sort of thing, but i fear it would be intruding, so I've just committed it to memory.
A Sunday with Nothing to Do!Sunday morning I finally made it to the waterfall cafe...I have no idea what the name of it is but it's a little restaurant next to the small waterfall, 10 minutes walk out of town. What a great spot. I sat with my Cafe con Leche and listened to the drizzle of water, mixed with the chirping birds and squeeking bugs. There was a chance they couldn't find the eggs...couldn't find them? or didn't have any? Either way, they appeared...most likely someone dashed off to the store. In the end a delicious Huevos Rancheros would be consumed by yours truly. Today was going to be the day that I sat and relaxed on the beach. I haven't had much of an opportunity to do that yet, and since I'd be leaving the next day, it was also a chance to check out the souveniers being sold on the beach. I'm not one to leave a place without something to remind me of it so I bought some jewelery from Brad's Father-in-law Marcos and a few art prints, that are already starting to crumble..but that just adds to the charm, in my opinion.
More Random Photos...
Yelapa Village...
