My Yelapan Holiday






The story starts on the plane from Seattle, I dreamt of getting to the hotel in Puerto Vallarta, getting into the swim suit, sitting in the pool, and drinking something tropical and fruity, pure relaxation. Not to be, mi amiga. the airline lost my pack...everything! no problemo they say, here's your copy of the report. "tracking number" I ask. "uh no" they respond. "how do I know if you've found it" is my reply..."report, your report" they say as they shove this pink piece of paper at me. "well is there a phone number?" "Si, si" so i got the phone number at least. I was reluctant to leave but what else am I to do? So in a taxi I go to my hotel. Instead of sitting by the pool supping on a beer I go in search of a phone card, the closest phone is across the street, so off I go, phone the airline...no one from lost in found is there, call back in 10minutes. ok, to the store to buy some beer and water. call back, bags not found. back to the hotel to get the phone number for my guy in Yelapa, back to the phone, he's not there. back to the hotel, back to the phone to call the airline, back to the hotel. I discover my sunscreen is in the pack, the pack is not here...my face is burnt to a crisp, just from going back and forth to the phone. back to the store to buy some sunscreen. back to the hotel. ey yey yey! Finally I say Finito, enough, I'm going to sit and relax. which I did, in my stinky clothes. The next day I decided to stay another night at the hotel in PV because it turns out my pack is on the next flight out of Seattle which arrives at 4pm and the last boat to Yelapa is at 4:30. I know for a fact it would never make to Yelapa!! so anyway, I finally get my pack the next day at 6pm and head to Yelapa on Tuesday morning. On the bus I head to Los Muertos Beach where I find the water taxi to take me to my destination. What an incredible boat ride, 45 minutes along the Bay of Banderas stopping at many of the small little villages that are tucked away in their own little coves.


Yelapa's Cove...What a Sight

After the incredible journey we turn the corner into Yelapa's own little cove. I was actually giddy! beautiful casas built into the rocky shore. A beautiful white sand beach. Restaurants lining half the beach, the other half seemingly empty but for a few kids running around playing. I was let off infront of my casa that I rented. Brad "my palapa in yelapa guy" was waiting for me. He got me settled in Vista Del Mar #1, Clean, open to the beach, comfortable. I quickly settled into what will become "my chair". after sitting listening to the pounding waves below me I decided to go for a walk around "town". I accidently went left instead of right and found myself up river. I happened upon the Oasis restaurant and took note that they will have live music that night. So I carried on and later on that night went back and sat at the bar. It was there that I met Shauna from seattle, she's travelling on her own as well. We sat and listened to Map Jeff and Chris on guitar and chatted with Will. I do believe I managed to get a bit tipsy on margaritas that night.

The next day was my birthday, and I thought there was going to be a disco at the Yacht Club, but alas it was the end of the season and it's no longer on. A good thing, it would turn out. Apparently there was going to be a gathering up at Casa Isabel that night, in honour of some of the local expat musicians that were leaving for the season the next day. Shauna & I made plans to meet at Pollo Bollo for dinner. I, of course, got lost and ended up in some eldery Senora's yard, she happily pointed me in the right direction, and I eventually made it. Wow! what a meal, Shauna with the Arrechera and I with Chicken Fajitas. . Muy Bien! After dinner we made our way up to Casa Isabel (Isabel has been living here for years, she's a legend in her own right, and has a beach named after her...that's right...Isabel's Beach) When we got there it was incredible...bongo drums, guitar, "Yelapa Air" Chris on piano, a harmonica thrown in on occasion and a voice that will haunt me for a long time. Her name escapes me but the way she sang Sting's Seventh Wave..(I think that's the name of it)...I'll never forget it, muy excellente! and the Casa...it belonged to Beverly and the art involved in it was nothing short of incredible what a place. The evening had quite the hippy vibe. I thought to myself "there's no way it can get better than this"

It Gets Better

Thursday me and Shauna hired horse and guide to take us up to the cathedral waterfall. two hours on horseback each way. the way up was amazing, you travel past the palapas up the river with the women doing the laundry in what's left of the river, dog's everywhere, cabelleros on horseback, the dust is flying, cows laying in the "road". It's like stepping back in time a few hundred years. Once at the waterfall its nothing much, we spent maybe 1/2 hour there. Chilling on the rocks, listening to the sounds of the waterfall. On the way back the horses knew they were heading home so they went a bit loco. Mine especially. They would start running away from the guide, going in odd directions. At one point there was a clear path to get down to the river but good old blacky decides to jump down the ledge instead...jump! I don't ride horses, I can't remember the last time I was on a horse, and after the horse started galloping or trotting or whatever horses to when they go fast, I felt pretty proud of myself, if I may say so. Jumping, however, that didn't sit well with me, you can just imagin the look of fright on my face...I'd get that look again in a few days, you'll see. I managed to stay on the horse, incredibly and eventually made it back in one piece.




After all that we treated ourselves to an incredible lunch at Restaurante Andy's for Chli Rellenos...I'll be dreaming of that meal for a long time! Muy Bien!!

Thanks Restaurant Andy's for making sure I never enjoy another Chili Rellenos again! At least until my next Yelapa visit.

Higher than a Kite!

Friday...what did I do friday...Hmm...Let me think..oh yeah...I met Chris at his Casa in the early afternoon. We took a hike up the mountain (not really a mountain, but a Yelapa Mountain) It's kinda like the Grouse Grind but in 30 degree weather and no trees to shade you. If you know the Grouse Grind, you know what I mean. So we finally get to the top and we're standing there just before the ledge, and he says to me "are you ready to do this?" I say "yes" "do you have a good attitude, are you gunna have fun?" "yes!" "alright, alright" my knees are shaking, my hands are by my side fingers twitchin "are you ready to do this?" he says again and again...anicipation is building...my heart is pounding...half an hour of this and finally I hear it "one two three...RUN, RUN, RUN....PULL PULL" with a shreak and a WOOOHOOHOOHOO.... I'm flying...I've just jumped off a mountain....hee hee hee. talk about eurphria!! So I guess I should explain there was a parachute attached to us and we are flying over Yelapa Bay and it is incredible...




I was on a natural high for the rest of the day. In town people were coming up to me saying "nice flight today"... "saw you flying, nice one"...


This night dinner was at Ramona's (I believe that's what it's called). It's a small hole-in-the-wall taco place, if I hadn't met Reef earlier I never would have thought to go there, there's no lights on, one or two large tables with the chairs stacked up on the side. At first glance I would have guessed it was closed. But it turned out to be the best taco joint in town. It's the kind of place where if you want a beer you have to go to the store next door and buy it yourself. After dinner we all headed to Mimi's Cafe for live music


That night we met Roger (Mimi's Husband?) who would take us to Tres Marietas Islands the next day.

Dolphins and Turtles and Mantas...oh my!

It's now Saturday and I still haven't found time to sit on the beach to drink beer and read my book, but I'm not complaining! Off I go to the Panederia for enough Banana Bread for Roger, Shauna and I, then to the store for enough beer for us. After a 10am departure from the pier we quickly see a pod, group...gaggle...swarm..I don't know.. of Dolphins. Beautiful dark, BIG dolphins, I've never seen dolphins outside of the aquarium before, they were swimming right up to the boat. unbelievable. then we saw a turtle...a big turtle just swimming around with a little bird on its back. This is crazy, this sort of thing just happens on the nature shows. then there were the Manta Rays...ok, I don't know what to say about the Manta rays...they were jet back with a pure white "face" and they were, I kid you not the size of the boat...gigantic is not expressive enough of a word...I was in awe...awe I tell you. So we get to the islands and they are the home of the blue-footed boobie bird...thousands of boobies everywhere you looked. After circling the islands...checking out the caves...commenting on the outrageous stench of bird shit. We take a breather on one of the small isolated beaches. Then we enjoy the lunch Roger has prepared for us. Ceviche...I'm not a fan of seafood..I know, crazy. but this was tasty, don't tell anyone, I'll never live it down. We went snorkeling and Roger would crumble bread to attract all the fish. Once I was in water he would throw it to where I was swimming, so basically if felt like the fish were attacking me. And they weren't the pretty colourful ones, they were the ugly grey ones that always won out and got the closest! On the way back we were just relaxing on the boat soaking in the sun. Roger stopped in a cove just east of yelapa. Ok, we're going to swim with these gargantuan Manta Rays...uh...I say to myself ...you want me to get in the water with those things?...ok! So snorkeling gear on, in the water I get. We'd swim around and pop our head up and see where Roger is pointing. He was pointing in a direction and i'd swim to it, head down...nothing. look up he's still pointing...head down...nothing! look up and he's pointing at me! yelling something in Spanish pointing at me frantically, I think this guys gone loco and why is he pointing at me...I put my head down and WHAM! this giant as the boat, jet black manta with a bright white face is literally right in front of me...well if you can imagin I do the freak out face, body all contorted and do what you probably shouldn't do and make this sudden jerky motion and try and do the backwards bird and push myself away from it, its huge fin / arm thing just about slaps me in the face! I was nearly bitch-slapped by a Manta! It starts to disappear and I say wait a minute and try and go after it, but it's too late, I freaked it out. again...unbelievable! as i'm getting back into the boat another one comes direcly beneath my feet. seriously..this place is cool! Now that I think of it, I think the spanish gibberish Roger was yelling at me was something of the effect of "watch out you crazy gringo, it's heading straight for you!!"










That night we were privy to the "Gossip Ladies". Sitting on the ledge waiting for a decent sunset shot, the Senoras of the town came wandering along and sat with us. Apparently, they wander around town to try and dish on all the dirt that happening in town. I don't speak Spanish and they don't speak English so I basically had to just smile and nod and wait for Shauna to fill me in. I felt quite honoured and made a mental note to learn Spanish before I return.




After dinner at Andy's (had to taste that Chili Rellenos once again) Reef took us to the Baile, the local dance hall, what a great experience. We were the only gringos there and it was all traditional mexican music and dancing. All the girls were stood outside the doors, and we figure it's because it's not acceptible for the wives and girlfriends to be sitting in a bar drinking beer...that didn't stop me and shauna of course, we were two of three girls there. I wish I could take pictures of that sort of thing, but i fear it would be intruding, so I've just committed it to memory.

A Sunday with Nothing to Do!

Sunday morning I finally made it to the waterfall cafe...I have no idea what the name of it is but it's a little restaurant next to the small waterfall, 10 minutes walk out of town. What a great spot. I sat with my Cafe con Leche and listened to the drizzle of water, mixed with the chirping birds and squeeking bugs. There was a chance they couldn't find the eggs...couldn't find them? or didn't have any? Either way, they appeared...most likely someone dashed off to the store. In the end a delicious Huevos Rancheros would be consumed by yours truly. Today was going to be the day that I sat and relaxed on the beach. I haven't had much of an opportunity to do that yet, and since I'd be leaving the next day, it was also a chance to check out the souveniers being sold on the beach. I'm not one to leave a place without something to remind me of it so I bought some jewelery from Brad's Father-in-law Marcos and a few art prints, that are already starting to crumble..but that just adds to the charm, in my opinion.




More Random Photos...


Vista Del Mar and it's View...




Life on the Water...
































Yelapa Village...











Random Photos...




Brad...Thanks for all your help!